A Home in Abutia-Kpota, Ghana

We got off the bus to hundreds of smiling faces, drumming and dancing. I was in the back of the bus so I didn't see how it began but our group was in two lines, following the local girls in lines as they danced waving pieces of fabric. They marched forwards towards an open area with lots of plastic chairs lined up and a giant cross and lots and lots of people (mostly children). Women were pouring handfuls of liquid from a bowl (palm wine?) at our feet and everyone was smiling and excited. Every member of the community was dressed up--mostly in bright, beautiful colors.

This was the start of our welcoming ceremony to Abutia-Kpota, a small town in the Volta region of Ghana. The ceremony included incredible drumming, beautiful singing and outstanding dancing. A lot of the young girls who were dancing had white paint on their bodies, which I'd never seen before. The dancing was absolutely amazing, I wish I had a video camera for it because pictures really can't do what we experienced justice. Some of the dances were in circles and one of my favorites was when there were two lines of girls (6 or 7 girls in each line) who were dancing and twirling fabric quickly, some times facing the us, some times facing the community on the other side and some times facing each other. Part of the dance involved them getting really low and joining by holding the same cloth. It was really beautiful and seamless. After the dancing, we were welcomed by the chief and elders and introduced ourselves. 

Once the opening cermony was through, we went to the school grounds to begin work. There were piles of sand to mix cement, buckets of paint to mix, gravel and molds for bricks. We were split up into groups, some were mixing paint and painting the school, some were making blocks, some were mixing sand and water and then filling big bowls with the wet cement. My job was carrying the mixed cement (at the start, and then just the sand to be mixed closer to the building site) on my head. It was really, really fun and great to experience something that we see every day. I can't imagine the women who carry twice as much weight on their heads, a baby on their backs and try to weave through Ghanaian traffic. Finally, some were plastering the walls of the new washroom at the school. All the children were around the school yard, watching, playing and some helping. It was hot beyond hot but it was an incredible experience, it was so much fun and all the townspeople were so helpful and kind. 

After a few hours of work, we had a lunch break. Afterwards, the jobs were limited so a few of my friends and I went into the woods behind the school yard and watched these young boys jump and cartwheel over a string they tied to two trees. It was really fun, they were so impressive! After all the work was done for the day, a local futbol game started on a huge field right next to the school. The whole town was watching and enthusiastic. It was the town we were staying in (Abutia-Kpota) against another town. We won 1-0 and when our team scored, all the kids ran out on the field screaming and cheering. It was such a beautiful, happy moment. Soon after, half our program went home and those of us staying over, met our families. I met my host father, Edwin and his two sons. He took me to his home and let me bathe. 

The shower was a small outdoor area with three walls constructed of hay and stick. The fourth wall was just a stick bar where you hang a piece of fabric (that is also used as a bed sheet, and wrap skirt or dress). Here, you take a cool, refreshing (and after a day of work in the hot sun, a much needed) bucket bath. When I was done, one of the women in my family brought me into the hut I was sleeping in and gave me powder and lotion for my body. Edwin brought me back to the futbol game where I met up with my friend (and roommate) Kaleigh and her host dad. Our families lived across the road from each other and our fathers gave us a tour of the town and introduced us to several people, including the futbol coach, who was very excited about the win. Everybody was so friendly, and they taught us a little bit of Ewe (the most common language of the region).

We walked through town until dinner when we met back up with NYU and ate together, as to keep from inconveniencing our families. After a little while, Kaleigh's host dad came to take us to the bonfire. He called my dad who brought me a piece of fabric to wrap around myself. The sky was clearing up and the stars were unbelievably incalculable. I've seen some starry nights but this one took my breath away. Being completely natural and self-sufficient, the town produces no litter or pollution and without electricity, the night sky is free from light pollution. Thus, we were blessed with a beautiful night that engulfed my presence. 

With a flame twice the size of me, the bonfire created a beautiful red and orange light, lighting up the towns members who had congregated for the event, the drummers and us, the visitors. While the drummers played, we danced. Primarily traveling in circle around the fire, we danced for about an hour, until the fire ended and we went back to our respective homes. My family wanted to sit outside and talk for a while which I was happy about because I was still totally consumed by the night sky. Most of my family did not speak very much English and they were talking in Ewe for the most part. When it was time for bed, my host mother, host aunt and I went into one hut where my host mother slept on a big bed, while the aunt and I shared a mat on the floor next to the bed. Probably from the exhaustion of the entire day, but without questioning or complaints, I slept better there than I have in weeks, it was great. 

I woke up early in the morning to calls of roosters and a beautiful sunrise. Women were sweeping the ground everywhere I could see (the neighborhood consists of many huts--my family consisted of at least 20 huts for all the uncles, aunts, parents, grandparents and each immediate family has storage and food huts as well as showers, chicken coops, etc. and there were other families right nearby). Some people were also digging in the ground and farming. A few of my family members and I were sitting and watching the sky change colors and the bright pink sun emerge from below and rise into a yellow glow. My host grandmother came out and made me a bracelet and a chain of beads to tie around my waist (a lot of people wear those here). She was so sweet and generous, even though we could hardly communicate with each other.  

After the morning chores were completed, my host mother and aunt brought me back into the hut to get me dressed for church. I was immediately adorned with full body attire, jewelry and a head wrap. 

 After we had another NYU meal (all in our church attire) we went to a beautiful outdoor church ceremony. Everyone was dressed in such amazing clothing and of course, the dancing and drumming did not cease to amaze me. While the readings were mostly in Ewe, they translated them into perfect English for us, which was really nice. We all got up and danced for a little while but the performance of each and every one of the singers and dancers in the community was yet again, astounding. 

After church, we returned to our homes for a little while where I ate some perfect, fresh pineapple. By this point, a few of my family members who knew some English had become more comfortable and confident talking to me so it was really fun to be with them and actually get to know them. They were all such great people and I couldn't be more grateful to the amazing experience they gave me. It's something I will remember for the rest of my life and forever cherish. 

The finished school! 

The finished washroom!

Before our final good byes, we finished painting the school and washroom and then parted, and headed back to Accra. Although it was sad to leave, we were all exhausted.  

Honestly, it was such a perfect place, everyone was so friendly, it was so beautiful, there was everything I could ever need and more. The environment was so welcoming and homey. Everyone knew each other (with a population of about 1200) and got along. I wish I could spend more extensive time in Abutia-Kpota. All in all, I couldn't have asked for a more fun and substantial weekend experience. Rural homestay for the win!